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Whenever compiling a list of London’s best eateries, one might expect familiar award-winning establishments. But, nestled high among these culinary giants is a modest salonu located in a outlying part of north London.

An Unexpected Honour

This small Turkish eatery, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the fourth finest restaurant in the capital by a prominent culinary publication. This recognition has left the owners completely surprised.

“I’m totally surprised,” says a proprietor, alluding to his family’s dedication that resulted in their humble restaurant earning such a prominent spot on a respected 99-strong list.

The Charm of Simplicity

This little venue, which was a simple cafe before its transformation into a buzzing destination, has maintained much of its original charm. It seats just more than 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking show, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky place,” notes the owner.

A Signature Offering: Tantuni

However, it is focused on the fare, and this eatery more than succeeds. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a moist, juicy consistency.

It is then thrown into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in slowly. As the meaty mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to absorb all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is folded tightly inside.

The wrap is typically eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a mighty slap of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The leading food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe is a delight. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, imparting it a richer, toastier and more balanced flavour.

Surpassing the Giants

Notably, this modest restaurant has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the top of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place full for under £25, similar meals at luxury establishments can start at significantly more than that figure.

A Ethos of Warmth

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. It is belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I don’t believe in that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is friendliness, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is echoed by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he was in a position of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the dangers of overcomplication, and to reveal what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

The Story of Perseverance

In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not work at Michelin-starred establishments. “I am really proud of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants need years to become successful, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum was extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would support her to support her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these duties made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

An Achievement for the People

This restaurant’s recognition is bound to echo outside its own premises. “In my opinion many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the greater meaning of this culinary honour.